Discovering the Juliana trail.

I'll be honest, I was initially skeptical about the Juliana Trail. As someone who spends a reasonable amount of time hiking in the Julian Alps, I'm usually drawn to the high mountains whether it's to bag a summit, or reach a spectacular viewpoint. The idea of a multi-day trail that meandered through villages and countryside didn't really appeal to my peak-bagging sensibilities.

But when some friends visiting from Sydney mentioned they were planning to hike a few stages of the Juliana, I thought "what the hell" so Ali and I decided to join them for what would turn out to be an enjoyable adventure. Sometimes our perception of things can be completely off the mark, and this trail proved to be a perfect example of that. What I discovered over two days was just how diverse and beautiful this route truly is. It may not have the singular focus of summiting a 2000m peak, but it offers something equally rewarding: a genuine immersion into the heart of Slovenia's alpine landscape and culture.

Day 1: Juliana Stage 5 - From Lake Bled to Pokljuka

We set off early from Lake Bled on what turned out to be an unseasonably hot June morning. Stage 5 proved to be more varied than I'd expected, taking us from the tourist hub of Bled through quieter villages and eventually up into the Pokljuka plateau.The route begins right at the lake, passing the castle and following the shoreline before climbing out of Bled and passing through the neighboring villages of Spodnje Gorje and Zgornje Gorje. I was pleasantly surprised by how the trail managed to find interesting paths even through these more populated areas rather than just sticking to main roads.

After leaving the villages behind we entered a gorge which is one of the more interesting sections of the path and climbs up through a limestone cave with three natural windows. Once above the gorge the remainder of the day was spent on a shaded paths meandering our way through beautiful forests and alpine meadows enjoying a light breeze, serenaded by the sound of cow bells.

The final stretch offered views of Viševnik, Draški vrh and Triglav mountains as we made our way to the Sport Hotel Pokljuka and after a full day of hiking, we were ready to put our feet up. The hotel proved to be a perfect base for hikers, offering comfortable rooms and hearty meals that hit the spot after a big day on the trail. The cooler temperatures up on the plateau were a welcome relief from the day's heat, and we spent time planning the next day's route while enjoying a cold beverage on the hotel's terrace.

Day 2: Stage 6 - From Pokljuka to Stara Fužina

Day two brought more unseasonably hot weather as we set off from our hotel in Pokljuka. Stage 6 took us through more varied terrain, starting with forest paths and local roads through the plateau before beginning the descent through hay fields towards Gorjuše. Along the way we passed small clusters of beautiful alpine chalets with manicured lawns and perfect wood piles. We opted for a mid-morning break at the Alpine Homestead in Gorjuše where we enjoyed an iced coffee and some much needed shade then it was time for the final push.

After taking in the spectacular viewpoint from just outside Koprivnik the final approach to Bohinj involves a steady descent through lush forests, with the trail providing regular glimpses of the lake and the villages below. It was a little choppy underfoot in some places on the descent, especially at the road crossings but with a little care these challenges can be easily managed. Eventually we popped out in the village of Jereka which is at the far end of the upper valley, then the trail leads you through another three villages before eventually arriving at Stara Fužina, which is located just a kilometer from the lake.

A Pleasant Surprise

What started as a somewhat reluctant decision to join friends on an unfamiliar trail turned into one of the more enjoyable hiking experiences Ali and I have had in recent memory. The Juliana Trail showed us a completely different way to experience the Julian Alps, one that combines natural beauty with cultural immersion in a way that pure mountain hikes simply can't match. The variety of terrain, from lakeside paths to mountain forests, coupled with glimpses into traditional alpine life, has completely changed our perspective on multi-day trail hiking. We're now genuinely excited about completing the remaining stages of the Juliana Trail and discovering what other surprises this remarkable route has in store.